Refined food, elegant plating at Tablescape

Grand Park City Hall has been completely transformed after its renovation.

The main entrance now faces Coleman Street, and you will have to take a lift up to the third storey to get to the reception.

That is also where you will find Tablescape, a modern European restaurant that took over the space left by the hotel's Chinese restaurant.

Executive Chef Robert Chan was behind one of my favourite restaurants (The Carvery at Park Hotel Alexandra). Now, he has moved to this property to launch Tablescape.

His signature grills are not a big feature on the menu. Instead, he is showcasing finer food that is elegantly plated.

It is a first-date type of place, because it is easy to impress with the service and the food.

Everything that ends up on your table looks over-deliberated on, which could be a turn-off if you - like me - prefer rustic. But the food saves the day.

While the Milk-Fed Veal stuffed with Foie Gras, Duxelles and Sage with Cauliflower Mimosa and Madeira Jus ($38) looks simple, getting it to the table is a two-day process.

The veal is first stuffed and left to set. A day later, it is deep-fried and baked. The end result is meat that is juicy and smells heavenly.

Sweetbread is an ingredient I see infrequently. I guess offal that is not cooked as kway chap is just not as popular here.

But at Tablescape, the Veal Sweetbread ($18) lifts the 2-minute Pea Soup with Ceps Mushroom Ragu it comes in.

The sweetbread is pan-fried and served to add texture to the soup. The sweetness of the pea soup and creaminess of the sweetbread make this dish great.

Also impressive is the Salmon Gravalax with Vegetable Shavings, Lemon Myrtle Oil and Cream Cheese Ice Cream ($16), especially the addictive cream cheese ice cream.

The house-cured salmon is tender and delicate, striking a nice balance with the tart dressing.

There is ham and there is lobster - two ingredients I adore - but still, I could not enjoy the Prosciutto Ham wrapped Monkfish and Maine Lobster on Risotto in Armagnac Lobster Bisque ($38).

Perhaps it is the monkfish, which is dry.

One of the best things here is actually free. The selection of bread varies, but the onion version is excellent and I am obsessed with the cheese bread.

So far, the bread remains a freebie at the restaurant, with no plans to be sold anywhere else.

This is such a pity - I can imagine popping over for a quick bite and a coffee in the afternoon.

Tablescape

Grand Park City Hall
Open noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily
Tel: 6432-5618