Givenchy's Clare Waight Keller kicks off Paris haute couture shows
Keller gives first show since fashion icon died in March
Clare Waight Keller, the Givenchy stylist who grabbed the global fashion spotlight by designing Meghan Markle's wedding dress, paid homage to the storied French luxury house's late founder in her latest haute couture collection.
On the first day of Paris couture week yesterday, the Givenchy show, held in the gardens of the National Archives in the city's Marais district, was shrouded in mystery and old-school Hollywood glamour.
It was Keller's first show since the house's founder Hubert de Givenchy died in March at the age of 91.
To the sound of Givenchy's muse Audrey Hepburn singing Moon River, the models strutted down a shimmering catwalk.
Draped dresses, voluminous jewels and feathers dotted the collection - 47-year-old Waight Keller's second haute couture offering since she succeeded Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy last March, shortly after leaving rival label Chloe after six years at the helm.
The colour palette was essentially black and white. Regal capes abounded - sometimes short, sometimes sweeping, sometimes hooded.
Gem-coloured sequins covered some dresses, evoking mermaid scales. Even the masculine silhouettes sparkled with sequins.
The British artistic director created the boat-necked, sculpted dress that Ms Markle wore for her wedding to Prince Harry on May 19, featuring a 5m-long train embroidered with flowers from all 53 Commonwealth countries.
Markle also chose Givenchy for her first official engagement on June 14 alongside Queen Elizabeth II, sporting a beige wool crepe dress with a small cape.
The official haute couture programme includes 35 shows, with collections from 11 nations: Belgium, China, France, Israel, Italy, Japan, Lebanon, Morocco, the Netherlands, Russia and the US. Unlike ready-to-wear shows, haute couture rollouts in January and July are a solely Parisian affair.
The prestigious "haute couture" label is accorded by the French industry ministry to acknowledge traditional craftsmanship in hand-sewn, custom-made garments using strict criteria.
Only 14 fashion houses currently boast the recognition, including Chanel, Christian Dior, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela, Schiaparelli, Alexis Mabille and Stephane Rolland.
The catwalk displays of some of the world's most expensive clothes will be followed on Thursday by high-end jewellery collections by the likes of Anna Hu, Bvlgari, Chanel, Chopard, De Beers, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Mikimoto. - AFP
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