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Makan

Makansutra: Simply divine Tokyo fare

Simply divine Tokyo fare
Don't sit, don't talk, just eat - that's how it rolls at the minimalist Minatoya restaurant, which serves delicious soba that draws daily queues. PHOTOS: MAKANSUTRA

From 'stand-up' soba to fish hotpot cooked over charcoal, good food abounds in Japan's capital

KF Seetoh
KF Seetoh
Food columnist
Nov 02, 2017 06:00 am
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I'll never know why it took me this long to visit Japan. Where have the Land of the Rising Sun been this past half century of my life?

During my week-long stay in Tokyo last week, I did not remember having a bad meal, I kid you not. Even the oden (Japanese-style yong tau foo) sold in a convenient store was good.

I did not go hunting for signboards listed in food guides; I merely looked at food and the way it was prepared, and trusted my well-intentioned friends who took me to little gems in Tokyo.

These three spots, among a few others, were the most memorable.

MINATOYA

3-1-10, Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo

11.30am-5pm, 5.30pm-8pm / closed Sat, Sun & public holidays

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Nearest train station: Kamiyacho Station (Hibiya line); Toranomon Station (Ginza line)

The staff treat you like a prisoner lining up for a set lunch. You order and pay up at the door, take your soba when the chef tells you to, and then you are shown a standing space to eat over a centrepiece table where no one really talks to one another.

The huge bowl of soba was softly al dente with greens, seaweed and some pork slices.

The cold dip was robust with hints of konbu, miso and soy sauce. Crack and stir two of the eggs that come free into the noodles, dip into the sauce, and you'd know why the queue is a daily affair.

It is hard to spot the signboard, which is no bigger than a name-card stuck by the entrance. And "no photo", the staff told me after I snapped one.


(Above) The fresh ingredients and tasty batter make the meal a stunning one at Kushinobo. PHOTO: MAKANSUTRA

KUSHINOBO

3F, Isetan Kaikan, Shinjuku, 3-15-17, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo

11.30am-3pm, 5pm-10.30pm daily

Nearest train station: Shinjukusanchome Station (Marunouchi line); Shinjuku Station (JR line)

If my local pals did not show the way, I'd not have given this little spot - half hidden by half-length curtains - much attention. The staff spoke no English (except "thank you" at the end of the meal).

They respectfully battered pieces of chicken, prawn, fish, pork, mushroom, pumpkin and a whole stick of asparagus, then rolled them in a stunning bed of breadcrumbs and deep-fried them.

The items were all amazing, but the one that stole my stomach was a crab meat and fish roulade. I finished it with the simple pleasure of a raw egg over hot rice with soy sauce.


(Above and below) Most customers sit on the floor at Komakata Dozeu to tuck into the traditional Dozeu fish hotpot. PHOTO: MAKANSUTRA
PHOTO: MAKANSUTRA

KOMAKATA DOZEU (AKASAKA)

1-7-12 Komagata, Taito-ku,Tokyo Komagata

11am-9pm daily

Nearest train station: Asakusa Station (Toei Asakusa line)

This place hails from the Edo era and is over 200 years old. It sure feels like it - in winter, it warms you with a planter of smokeless Binch-tan coals as you enter.

Its signature dish is the Dozeu fish (pond loach) hotpot over those coals, simmered in a rich broth of stock and soy sauce with touches of mirin and seaweed.

The Dozeu is like sardine and was popular in the Edo period.

The eatery also offers sides such as tamagoyaki (rolled omelette), tofu skewers and greens.

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Food & DrinkREVIEWSTokyo

KF Seetoh

Food columnist
KF Seetoh, the founder of Makansutra, dabbles in street food businesses like Food Markets, his own TV shows on cable, publishing food guides, consultancy and online content. He is also the creator of the World Street Food Congress. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. 
tnp@sph.com.sg
@kfseetohsg
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