Prep your palate for Penang zi char
Penang zi char stalls serve up delicious comfort food
Penang is not just about char kway teow, kueh kak, nasi kandar, assam laksa and chendol.
There is a range of zi char stalls and restaurants that many Malaysians - both the older and wired generation - flock to every day, and smart travellers should know to join in.
There is nothing fancy about these places that have over 100 years of history among them. They are just sincere and consistent and let their food do the talking.
Service is as efficient as can be expected of such crowded spots and only the spoiled will find them curt.
Tek Sen Restaurant,
18 Carnarvon Street, 12pm to 3pm and 6pm to 9pm, closed on Tuesdays. Tel: +60-12-9815117
When dinner starts at 6pm at this kopitiam, it is already full with customers.
You get a playing card as a waiting number token and you are usually seated 15 to 20 minutes later.
The food comes fast, comprising mostly quick and fast wok stir-fry stuff with some soups and curries.
Practically no one misses the Double Roasted Pork with Chilli Padi (RM16 or S$5.40), sliced roasted pork fried with thick soy sauce, garlic and sugar. This is moreish. Pair it with rice.
The Assam Tumis Stingray (RM45) is not quite the best I have had in Penang but I will have it again in a heartbeat. The tamarind tang in the curry is not overly sharp and the spices are just kind enough.
The stingray is fresh, moist and soft. Slather the curry over rice and you will get under the skin of this dish.
The Sambal Kacang Botol (RM14) or four-angled bean is wok-tossed for "wok hei", yet it retains its crunchiness.
The sambal is spicy and rich with some fresh prawns.
Check out the daily soups too. The lotus root and pork ribs (RM10) I had was on point. I can easily taste the dried cuttlefish used in the broth and the umami and sweetness were magical.
Foong Wei Heong Restaurant
25 Jalan Sri Bahari (off Jalan Penang), 11.45am to 2.15pm, 5.45pm to 9.30pm daily. Tel: +60-4-2611918
This place harkens back to the 80s when white and red cloth lined the tables .
The menu is helmed by top-notch chefs in the kitchen.
The simple Lotus Root and Celery (RM18) had one extra edge, bits of dried teepo (dried fish bones) that sharpen the sweet and soft crunch of the vegetable dish. Young roots are used and the tuber flavour is mild.
The Deep Fried Crispy Pork (RM25) is done in sweet sauce - bacon slices and deep-fried and tossed in garlic and a honey-soy sauce, like crispy bak kwa.
Another popular dish is the Steamed Garoupa (RM78), sliced into chunks and steamed with a ginger-soy sauce. The lure is the freshness of the fish and the bite that comes from the rubbery skin, left intact.
This is also where I had the best Oyster Noodles (RM20). The flavour of the shellfish did not overwhelm but paired so softly with the sauce. The noodles were blanched perfectly and it was really easy to like.
K.F. Seetoh, the founder of Makansutra, dabbles in street food businesses like Food Markets and has his own TV shows on cable. He publishes food guides and online content. He is also the creator of the World Street Food Congress. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
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