Thrilling takes on local flavours at Botanico
About 18 months after it opened, Botanico refreshed itself.
The physical space has changed - it is more welcoming now, with plenty of Instagram spots - but the most significant change is the introduction of a new menu from a new head chef.
Chef Sujatha Asokan's menu is filled with dishes that have suggestions of local flavours and ingredients, without veering too far away from its European roots.
Let's face reality - in a tourist-heavy location such as the Singapore Botanic Gardens, how local can you go?
But the confident touches she added - some expected, some ambitious - were mostly thrilling.
The fact that she is the rare Singaporean female head chef is worth celebrating, and that she is clever and creative with her food makes the celebration more worthwhile.
I am so impressed with the Seabass Ceviche ($17), the chef's interpretation of assam laksa. I am not a fan of the actual assam laksa, but this version I love.
The ceviche is refreshing, with added aroma from green chilli, pomegranate and shaved ginger flower.
SHRIMP PASTE ICE CREAM
But it is the eyes-rolled-back goodness of the shrimp paste - or hae ko - ice cream served with it that reels me in.
Hae ko is not to everyone's taste, but this light and flavourful take on it is just delightful.
The Cauliflower ($10) is not much to look at, but the taste is sensational.
Local cauliflower is deep-fried, then smoked and finally tossed in a canarejal cheese mix (an unpasteurised sheep's milk cheese from northern Spain). The crunch of the almonds and cauliflower, with the depth of the cheese, make this the perfect snack.
While the tongue in Beef Tongue ($20) is tender enough, it is that touch of bitter that is seductive. That likely comes from the mustard seeds, and it is a welcome addition.
If you feed your followers on social media with gorgeous dishes, be sure to order the Slipper Lobster Chittara ($32).
But except for the memorable umami-laden XO sauce, the dish is devoid of personality and unable to stand out.
Another ice cream that I like is the Jalapeno Ice Cream ($11).
This is a dessert for those of us who do not like desserts.
The jalapeno ice cream has an interesting grassy taste, which goes well with the charred Sarawak pineapple and dehydrated bacon financier.
The diversity of flavours in one bowl is the true appeal of the dessert and pretty much sums up the dining experience here.
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