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Makan

Currying on

Currying on
LEGACY: The boldly flavoured soya stewed pork belly at No Name Curry Rice, some of the stall's other dishes, Mr Lim Jia Han at Hong Seng Curry Rice (above), the best-selling meat cake at No Name Curry Rice, and the spread at Hong Seng, which is good for gentler palates.PHOTO: KF SEETOH
Currying on
LEGACY: The boldly flavoured soya stewed pork belly at No Name Curry Rice (above), some of the stall's other dishes, Mr Lim Jia Han at Hong Seng Curry Rice, the best-selling meat cake at No Name Curry Rice, and the spread at Hong Seng, which is good for gentler palates.PHOTO: KF SEETOH
Currying on
LEGACY: The boldly flavoured soya stewed pork belly at No Name Curry Rice, some of the stall's other dishes (above), Mr Lim Jia Han at Hong Seng Curry Rice, the best-selling meat cake at No Name Curry Rice, and the spread at Hong Seng, which is good for gentler palates .PHOTO: KF SEETOH
Currying on
LEGACY: The boldly flavoured soya stewed pork belly at No Name Curry Rice, some of the stall's other dishes, Mr Lim Jia Han at Hong Seng Curry Rice, the best-selling meat cake at No Name Curry Rice (above), and the spread at Hong Seng, which is good for gentler palates .PHOTO: KF SEETOH
Currying on
LEGACY: The boldly flavoured soya stewed pork belly at No Name Curry Rice, some of the stall's other dishes, Mr Lim Jia Han at Hong Seng Curry Rice, the best-selling meat cake at No Name Curry Rice, and the spread at Hong Seng, which is good for gentler palates (above).PHOTO: KF SEETOH

Two stalls keep legacy of Hainanese curry rice going

KF Seetoh
KF Seetoh
Food columnist
Aug 23, 2015 06:00 am
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it would not be strange to assume that Hainanese curry rice is an adaptation of Indian cuisine in Singapore.

But that is not entirely correct.

When researching for the SG50 Deliciously Singaporean project - aimed at discovering born, bred and evolved local food - we realised that the dish came through the British and Japanese.

In colonial times, the British created a version of Indian curries and shared it with their Hainanese housekeepers.

The Japanese enjoyed it so much that curry katsu don (pork cutlet with rice) made an appearance around the time World War II ended.

It is no surprise the chicken tikka masala, a type of chicken curry eaten with rice, has become a national dish of sorts in England.

Volcano Chicken from The Famous Kitchen.
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The first known Hainanese hawker to offer this dish was Mr Lee Shi Su at the defunct Clyde Terrace Market on Beach Road in the late 1940s.

But the Hainanese version is far removed from its Indian roots - you will find pork chop, sardine, fried egg, prawn fritters, meat cakes and even Nonya-style assam fish at the curry rice stalls.

The unique local version, Scissor Cut Curry Rice, was created out of sheer desperation and practicality.

When lines formed, hawkers picked the dishes, cut them up, placed them over rice and then topped it with curry.

Over the years, we have seen a gradual decline of such hawkers.

The dish is fairly complex and those who enjoy it are usually fastidious about it.

But here are two worthy hawkers still protecting this legacy.


NO NAME CURRY RICE

Block 40, Beo Crescent, 
Ho Pin Hng Coffee Shop

7am to 3pm, closed on Wednesdays

This is arguably the gold standard of Hainanese curry rice today.

With a history of almost 30 years, this stall has a dedicated pool of regulars and there is often a long queue.

Mr Pang Teow Chin, a Hainanese, and his wife Madam Mo Zhuang, cook and serve the dishes quickly.

It is bold with flavours. There are almost 20 dishes available.

The pork chop is thin enough for you to enjoy the crunchy batter and the curry sotong is perfectly salted for it to be enjoyed over starchy curried rice (with two types of curries). I love their battered prawns and the lor bak (soya stewed pork slices) too.


HONG SENG CURRY RICE

Block 85, Redhill Lane, Redhill Food Centre, #01-74

10.30am to 10pm, closed on Thursdays

His grandmother started it and now, banking and finance graduate Lim Jia Han has taken over with the help of his parents.

He has standardised operation and cut down the types of curries to just one robust version for the meat and seafood dishes.

The spice and salt meter here is gentler and more appealing to a newer generation looking to fall in love with this dish.

The meat and seafood are fresh.

The curry mackerel is firm and juicy.

I love their peanut ikan bilis, which they sell separately in boxes too. It is sweet, spicy and crunchy.

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foodSingaporehawkerlegacyUncategorised

KF Seetoh

Food columnist
KF Seetoh, the founder of Makansutra, dabbles in street food businesses like Food Markets, his own TV shows on cable, publishing food guides, consultancy and online content. He is also the creator of the World Street Food Congress. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. 
tnp@sph.com.sg
@kfseetohsg
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